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Keep your cue race from day to day


If you want to play athletes like your predecessor, you need to arrange your equipment as a pros. You've seen crazy players, such as Alison Fisher and Earl Strickland, with their cue. You must give the cue the same respect. If you handle the cue well, you will deal with it for many years. A well-maintained cue will help keep you on top of the game.

The first step is the proper care and feeding of the new pool cue in the chosen case. Some pool signals come in a soft case but a soft case does not provide the necessary support. The hard cube is your best bet. Because you want to store the cue in a vertical position, the well-balanced hard case is right for the job. You want to stay vertically without worrying about falling and damaging the cue. The only time you do not want to stand next to the pool when it's in use and leave the table for a moment. In this case, you want to sink to the table, never fall on the wall. This will help keep you straight and true.

Most pool indicator types have a so-called common protective device. They are somewhat like wooden plugs. One screw at each end of the pool connects to the cue after disconnecting the pool. It is important that you play them after the game – keep dirt, grease, oil and other debris in the cue connection. If your joint is dirty then it will not be straight when the cue is together and will affect your shot. Do not use chalk by hand if you help with the same lines. It enters the joint during gaming and may affect the joint closure over time.

Before the game you can wash your hands manually and wipe the game with a soft, dry cloth. Sometimes it does not matter how careful you are, the shaft will be dirty. First clean with mild soapy water and then dry with a soft cloth. If this is done, take a pool cue burnisher, which is usually made of untreated skin and gently rub. If the cue is so dirty that easy cleaning and burning will not help, use the cue grinder. This material is made of rough sandpaper and is curved around the cue axis – light sanding should do the trick for stubborn dirt.

The last two things you have to note are: mountain swings and cue dings and drops. The tip must be replaced historically. You can tell when you have time to get lost when you chalk. If the rumbling or cue is slid, it is possible to repair the small tubes. Wrap paper towels and wrap them in a small ball. Place the damp towel on the node or fetus and leave for a few minutes. The tree is expanding to the water (because the wood is porous). If this happens, burn (not sand). Once you have mastered cue care and repair, the game will improve. Like any device, getting to know it improves its use.

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